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In Victorian times for the upper and middle class ladies appearance was considered vital.
The most desirable feature in ladies was an hour glass figure that displayed an hour glass waist and emphasised the bust and hips.
Although some lucky ladies had this figure naturally most achieved the effect by the use of corsets .
By the 1920's other forms of less constricting lingerie were available and the use of the corset as a fashion accessory declined.
The below extract from the Family Doctor and People's Medical Advisor from 1899 is reproduced along with sketches of the type of body and corsets referred to in the article.
The waist should be in it a natural place.
There should be plenty of room for the chest.
The curve at the waist should not be too sharp.
The corset should go well down over the hips.
The busk should be flexible at the top and firm at the bottom.
The front should support the bust.
We will see how far the requirements are adhered to in the sketches of types annexed.
What I have called the "Flat Chest" is too often found among cheap
stays, particularly in the country, and with the old fashioned
nonfront fastening. It cannot be too strongly condemned.
The " High Curve" is a slight exaggeration upon another common form,
and, of course, cruelly contracts the ribs and all vitals therein, and
would cause a host of troubles to liver, stomach, kidneys, &c., not
to mention the lungs and heart.
The " Long V" was the form very common in Hogarth's time, but it
contracts the ribs a great deal too much for tight lacing or even
ordinary wear, though it has a nice appearance, and is much to be
preferred in the matter of health to the other two. It is not a form of
cheap stay.
The two "Hour-glass" forms, long and short, are again still better,
particularly the short. They have both the objection of being too
sharply curved at the waist, and not spreading out sharply enough over
the hips, thus pressing the waist up a little. They also, particularly
the long form, are not eased to the shape of the ribs. They unduly
squeeze the lower ribs without any corresponding advantage of form.
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